37.
Her menu was laid out on the desk.
Complete, now. Ready, for the first time. Tattooed onto cured wild boar skin,
it had a crisp leathery edge, a few stray unplucked hairs, and Matilda thought
the texture would compliment the melange of earthy, toned, wild flavours that
defined her style. That were at the heart of her cooking. The stars of her
dishes. A 10-course degustation menu that traversed all she knew of cooking.
That anyone could know of the intricacies of Melbournian – no, all
dining.
ChefComp
Dinner
Matilda
Olinda
oysters
& the ocean they were born in
pearl
tapioca, black cod roe, orange
*
goanna
broth served chilled
Phillip
Island ice, wattle seed
*
the
salad
iceberg
lettuce
*
red
rose potato as fondant
truffles,
pig crackling
*
foie
gras from trained geese
corn,
red wine, bush pepper
*
penguin
egg confit in its nest
noodle,
butter, warrigal greens
*
medley
of deep sea fish on smoke
sequoia
chips, frites
*
flamingo
shanks & sex seasoned carrots
yams,
condiments, radish
*
pavlova
floating on air
coconut,
sugar
*
selection
of antelope & mountain goat cheese
quince,
crackers
She
read it over again. Double checking. The air in her apartment tasted crisp. A
dash of salt. Citrus. Matilda deliberately adjusted all the environmental
factors that altered the bitterness, sweetness, saltiness, sourness, and umami around
her. Tried to ensure that at least in her home, that she had control of
flavour. Outside, Matilda had to deal with enough average and shit. Fucking under
seasoned, overdone, mismatched. Gross, in a word. She used a mixture of air purifiers.
Scented smoke. Cleaning products. Even the fabrics of her couches and the
materials of her furniture were carefully selected. All of it amounted to a delicious
atmosphere. One she savoured whenever at home. She wondered again why she had
to deal the actual public. Food was perfect until someone had an opinion. Hers
was all that mattered, really. The curse of her profession.
This
was finally going to be the year of her ascension. Matilda had tweaked and played
and made it perfect. Well, as perfect as it could be. There was still the
missing element. Her birthright. But, either way, no longer would they
disparage her for being too creative. Too strangely aloof in her food. This menu
wouldn’t go over their heads like it had in years past.
No more raw
nuts and seafood, served in a Ferntree Gully cave by topless waiters wearing
fedoras, to the strains of Enya being played backwards at maximum volume,
watched by pickled octopuses, spiked on pikes, dressed as matadors.
She was done with
serving braises out of ceramic pots to guests seated in hot tubs smartly
adorned with linen and candles, filled with vacuum sealed bags slowly cooking
their next course.
There would
never again be dinners framed entirely around the systematic destruction of the
white risotto, where each element was drawn to existential question, challenged
in a series of progressively more challenging questions of self in regards to
time and space, then absentmindedly tossed into an enormous cauldron full of
dropbear stock, shown to be nothing more than a meaningless part to an overhyped
whole.
No more
critics like Jeremy Goldwaters who wrote beguilingly, but over critically of
her genius. Never understanding what she attempted and what she sought. Never
comprehending the possibility of the ecstasy of Plato’s bite.
Matilda was
done with the showmanship. The meta-commentary on herself in the dishes she
prepared. Never again would she skewer a fairy. Stuff a pig into a baby elephant.
Serve dinner in an abandoned western suburbs factory dressed in nothing but
blood pudding, while singing the Rage theme song over and again until
she was hoarse and winded, her guests full and covered in the grits she had
thrown at them throughout their meal.
She realised
that her god would never be found in such ornate gestures and grand meaning. In
her expression of her consciousness on a plate – an expression, she learned,
that would always pale as nothing more than a ghostly remnant in its finish.
For Apicius was a simple god, who treasured the eloquence found in the simplicity
of cooking basic ingredients well. Much more than a deity of food, restaurants,
and chefs; Apicius was a god of technique and process. To serve him well, arise
to his level, and surpass all other mere cooks, Matilda’s dinner did not only
need to be scrumptious, but sublimely, transcendentally executed. It was not
what she cooked and how she presented herself – her food on a plate, or in a
bowl, or aside a wooden log burning a deep ember. No. Her truest being, the one
closest to Apicius, was found in the act of cooking itself. In formulating the
recipe, measuring the ingredients, adjusting temperature, stirring, and, all
the other fine performances of preparing anything from breakfast, to a snack,
to a grand dinner party for the Premier of Melbourne.
But it was
one skill he preferred above all others. That revealed the most about a chef’s
true spirit.
It was the
dance of the knife. Dicing, slicing, and chopping. The exactness of this most
fundamental and raw of chef’s skill, and its impact on the meal’s final aesthetic
and flavoured form, was what Apicius preferred most. It was what he believed made
any produce genuinely great. It was the essence of the true chef most finely
expressed.
She read over
her menu again. Then leaned over to look at her phone. No messages. Her sous
chef and disciple, Nicko, had been silent since telling her he was onto the
knife. Still chasing hospo connections back to the knife sharpener and the girl
thief. She wondered if they even knew what sort of hierogram they had in their
possession.
The air was getting
a little stale. Overdone. Matilda squeezed a nearby lemon into a spray bottle
and spritzed lightly. Better. Pressed a button to control the flow of air from
her wall mounted heater.
It was close.
She knew it. Nicko had never let her down. Had always supported her in every service.
Adorned her plates with micro herbs and careful smears. Cooked the meat to the
perfect temperature. Tempered chocolate and whipped egg whites to gravity defying
consistency.
She would
have the knife of Apicius. ChefComp would be hers and Matilda Olinda the only culinary
name that matters.
The customers
and critics and fools who didn’t get it, who sought satisfaction in tasteless
grease and farmer's sandwiches, stodgy carbs and bland heavy sauces, corporeal
creatures under seasoned – their voices will finally be silenced before the
majesty of her offering. Before the divine comedy of her preparation, mise en
place, and cooking.
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